Sizing Assistant ::

All charts and recommendations listed below are provided as general guidelines for properly sizing up equipment. Additional considerations such as personal preference and style of play also affect appropriate sizing determinations.

Goalie Sizing Guidelines

Leg Pads ::
When the pad is on the leg with your skates on, the player's knee should fit perfectly into the middle of the knee cradle while the knee is slightly bent.

When sizing a set of leg pads for someone who is growing it is important to allow for the most growing room possible. However, It's equally important that the pad is not too cumbersome. Bulky pads cause limited movement.

To properly account for growing room, the player should be able to get his or her knee to touch at least the bottom third of the knee cradle while the knee is slightly bent. If the knee doesn't reach while bent, the pad is too big.

An easy way to properly estimate the most appropriate size for a goalie's leg pads is to take the following measurements:

1. Distance from the bottom of the goalie's foot to the mid-point of the goalie's knee cap (measured standing straight up on a flat surface)
    
2. Distance from the mid-point of the goalie's kneecap to the desired point on the thigh where the top of the pad will rest (measured standing straight up on a flat surface)
    
3. Distance from the bottom of the goalie's foot to the top of his head without skates on (measured standing straight up on a flat surface)
    
4. Distance from the bottom of the goalie's foot to the top of his head with skates on (measured standing straight up on a flat surface)

Be sure and record these measurements. It will serve as an important reference when searching for the right pair of pads. Providing these measurements (A, B, C, and D) to a sales associate will help in assuring that the goalie's is getting the right gear for his size.

Gloves ::
There are essentially two different styles of breaks to be considered when selecting a goalie glove:

1. Hand Break ― the glove closes in the middle of the palm (most common)
2. Finger Break ― the glove closes flush with slight movement from only the fingers.

The arm pads of the goalie's chest protector should be able to move freely and fit comfortably in the cuff of the glove.

Although gloves are only sized from Youth to Senior, most companies offer a variety of different styles and features to choose from.

Recommendations
Senior ― 13 years and older
Intermediate ― 11 to 13 years old
Junior ― 8 to 11 years old
Youth ― 5 to 8 years old

Keep in mind that fitting a glove for a goalie is largely determined by personal preference rather than standard measurements.

Blockers ::
The inside edge on blockers is simply that there really isn't a tremendously significant difference between most models.

Thickness of the actual blocker board, tapering of the nose (front/bottom) and the level of finger protection the goalie desires are among the different considerations to factor into making the right selection.

Most goalies opt to "match up" their blocker to their glove. This can be coordinated by manufacturer, size, style, or just the color scheme.

Recommendations
Senior ― 13 years and older
Intermediate ― 11 to 13 years old
Junior ― 8 to 11 years old
Youth ― 5 to 8 years old

Chest Protectors ::
The goalie's chest and arm protection is among the most important pieces of equipment to size up accurately so that the goaltender is well protected and comfortable at the same time.

Chest protectors will take a lot of abuse, so a proper fit is essential to helping prevent injuries. A good chest protector will provide protection in the key target areas: the collar bone, ribs, sternum, and biceps.

Choosing the right material and thickness will also aid in the durability and lifespan of the chest protector.

There is a wide selection of choices and price points available for this piece of equipment so take everything into consideration when selecting.

Senior Sizing

Junior Sizing

To best avoid injury, the goalie's chest protector should adequately match up to the level of play and competition that he or she faces.

Pants ::
As a general rule, the bottom of the goalie's pants should sit just above the knee cap. Basically, it should sit low enough to provide protection, but not so much so that it will likely interfere with the goalie's leg pads.

Pant sizes for young goalies can vary dramatically from player to player, as both height and body frame (slim to stocky) fluctuate, so it is often recommended to ask a sales associate for assistance when attempting to size up a young goalie.

Senior Sizing

Junior Sizing

The best assessment off a pair of pants is made while also wearing leg pads during the trial. This will allow the goalie to determine whether or not there the length of the pants will cause interference.

Masks ::
Properly fitting a goalie's mask is crucial in assuring maximum protection to the face and head.
To determine the proper size required, measure the circumference of the goalie's head from just above the eyebrows.

Other factors that will help in determining the right mask size are the shape of the goalie's head, jaw width and body weight.

Sizing charts vary greatly among companies so it's best to take the aforementioned measurements into consideration when picking a mask.

Of course, no system of measurements will be able to beat the real thing, so it's recommended to try on different masks to expose the goalie to varying mask and cage styles.

Place the mask on the goalie's head so that the top edge of the face opening is approximately one half of one inch above the eyebrows. The mask should fit snug without movement on the head.
Self-adhesive foam pads are included and can be added to provide a secure fit. The sweatband must be securely in place while fitting and during use.

The chin cup should be adjusted to be snug so as not to allow movement on the head or allow the mask to be pushed in closer to the jaw. It should be used at all times and should be adjusted so that the mask cannot be displaced during play.

The rear skull plate and straps should be adjusted so as to apply a slight amount of tension to achieve a secure fit.

All adjustments should be checked frequently to assure a proper fit.

Sticks ::
Choosing the right size paddle is extremely important in the selection of a goalie's stick.
When possible, the goalie should have his or her goal skates on when picking out a new stick. This allows the goalie to handle the stick and best assess its size.

Have the goalie grab a stick that looks most likely to be the correct size and get into "the stance."
The blade of the stick should be flush with the ground. If the toe of the blade is coming off the ground the stick is too big.

When choosing a curve the goalie should consider: how often he or she is likely to "play the puck," whether a backhand or forehand shot is more commonly used, and what overall style of play is utilized.

If the goalie plays the puck quite often, a curve with more loft is recommended so that the goalie can get the puck into the air easier.

The goalie may, however, be better off with a straighter stick if he or she prefers to use a backhand shot because it will offer more blade to use.

Most goalie coaches suggest that a typical butterfly goalie have a stick with some loft. This will allow the puck to be deflected into the goalie's chest as well allow the goalie to deflect the puck over the glass to get a stoppage of play.

Take all of these suggestions into consideration when choosing a goalie stick and do not be afraid to change up the curve with every new stick until the curve that works best is found.

Forward/Defense Sizing Guidelines

Helmets ::
Helmets are arguably the most important piece of protective ice hockey equipment that players put on.

There are basically two different styles of helmets on the market today: Single Density Rubatex Foam and Dual Density.

A properly fitted helmet should have very little room for movement but still provide comfort. The chinstrap should be adjusted so that it gently makes contact under the chin when fastened. To maximize protection, adjust the helmet to ensure a snug fit. A poorly fit helmet could result in injury.

Players' should get into the habit of performing inspections in their helmet and facemask to ensure that the screws and hardware are secure. If the helmet is found to ever be cracked or damaged in any way, it should be immediately replaced to avoid any chance of injury.

Most manufactures recommend helmets should be replaced every two to three years.
Every helmet must be CSA or HECC approved.

It's also recommended that an additional form of facial protection, such as a mouth guard, be worn to supplement the helmet.

Measure the circumference around the player's head (just above the eyebrows) to help determine what size helmet is needed.

Shields and Cages ::
The traditional cage face mask is both strong and durable. It provides excellent ventilation for cooling and breathing while allowing for adequate vision.

The full face shield provides excellent vision both straight ahead and peripherally, but lacks the superb air flow that the classic cage yields.

The half shield or visor, while very popular among men's league skaters, is not a recommended choice for facial protection, especially for competitive play at any amateur levels.

Even if an organization or league does not explicitly require a full cage or shield to be worn, it's too easy to end up with stitches or worse from not having proper facial protection.

When searching for a cage or shield, here are some factors to consider:

• The age of the player the facial protection is for
• The measurement of distance between the player's eyebrows to the bottom of his or her chin (measure with the mouth closed)
• Whether or not the cage or shield certified
  
  Every level of youth hockey requires that only helmets approved by the CSA or HECC are permitted for use

Mouth guards are also an essential piece of hockey equipment which should never be overlooked!

Not only do they significantly reduce the incidence and severity of injuries to the teeth and mouth, but they also act as a shock absorber against more serious injuries like jaw fractures and concussions.

Shoulder Pads ::
Personal preference plays a significantly measurable role when it comes to the selection of shoulder pad.

Properly fitted pads should provide protection for the collar bone, chest, ribs, back and upper arms.

A proper fit should have the center of the player's shoulder line up directly with the center of the shoulder caps. Some models have adjustable bicep protectors. In such cases, the bicep pads should meet the top of the elbow pad for maximum protection.

It's also extremely important that shoulder pads used by younger players with growing bodies provide more than ample protection to avoid damage to bone and joint development.

When trying to find the right shoulder pads, consider the following:

• The age, height, weight and chest size of the player
• The style of play the player prefers to engage in
• The level of competition for which the pads will need to stand up to

Higher levels of play often require a more protective shoulder pad.

More protective doesn't always mean bulkier. Some of the best designs offer great mobility while still offering a high level of protection.

Elbow Pads ::
A good elbow pad will provide forearm protection against slashes by extending down to the cuff of your the player's glove.

Elbow pads should also provide a comfortable but snug fit, however, they should never slip off the elbow joint.

The most important thing about elbow pads is that they stay in place to protect players when they fall!

Properly fitted elbow pads should also allow for a good range of motion with little restriction.
With so many models and manufacturers to choose from, consider the these aspects when attempting to nail down the right pair of elbow pads:

• The age of the player the pads are for
• The level of play that he or she will competing at while using the pads

Based on that information, the level of protection that is necessary can be determined to help select the most appropriate tool for the trade.

Shin Pads ::
Though sometimes overlooked when outfitting a hockey player, choosing the right shin pads can separate serious protection from serious injury.

It is important to make sure that the shin pads are not too long.

To gauge the right length for optimal protection, measure the distance (in inches or centimeters) between the center of the player's kneecap and the edge of the skate just above the top eyelet (hole where the laces go).

To obtain this measurement, have the player sitting with his or her leg bent at 90 degree angle while wearing a skate. Measure from the top eyelet of the skate to the center of the kneecap.

The player's kneecap should fit directly into the center of the kneepad cup.

It's also a good idea to find pads that will allow for the tongue of the skate to sit comfortably under the shin pad for additional protection from pucks or skate cuts.

Knowing the age of the player and the level of play that he or she intends the use of the pads for will also help in the selection process by determining how much protection is needed.

Gloves ::
With so many characteristics to consider and so many makes and models to choose from, selecting the ultimate pair of hockey gloves is largely determined by the player's personal preferences.

The protection level of gloves should coincide with the player's style and level of play.

More often than not, it's recommend that when it comes to gloves, players should be wearing those with the highest level of protection that they can afford.

High density foams and plastic inserts are ideal attributes, but those features are usually found only on top notch models.

Some gloves come with wrist guards built right in. This is a good way to ensure maximum wrist protection, but mobility is slightly compromised as a result.

Generally, gloves should be somewhat loose to allow for freedom of movement, but should still provide protection from slashes. Additionally, the gap that occurs between the glove and the elbow pad should be minimal.

The feel of the glove is also very important.

Today, most companies put together gloves with a soft, Clarino Nash palm to enhance feel and stick control. Traditional leather palms are no longer commonly manufactured, however used gloves that require re-palming can be outfitted with the classic texture if so desired.

For an older player, whose hands are finished growing, the end his or her fingers should come just barely to the end of the fingers slots in the gloves. The player's fingers should not feel like they are pushing through the end of the glove. On the flip side, there should not be too much of a gap between the player's fingers and the end of the finger slots either. Roughly one quarter of an inch is the maximum amount of room there should ever be.

For younger players, whose hands are still growing, leaving a little bit of extra (growing) room in the finger slot is acceptable. However, it should not be so much room that the player's hand is "swimming" in the glove.

A quick way to test gloves for a proper fit is to try and pick up a stick lying on the ice (or ground) by the shaft while wearing the gloves. If this can not be done easily, the glove is more than likely too big.

Pants ::
Hockey pants should fit loosely and comfortably, yet should also be able to be secured firmly by a belt around the waist.

More than 90% of all people will be able to use their waist size as their guide to choosing the correct size in hockey pants.

The rule of thumb for trying to determine the best length for a player's pants is to line up the bottom of the pants with the middle of the player's shin pad kneecaps.

Protection levels vary depending on the model.

As a general rule, the higher the price, the more hip, kidney and tailbone protection is offered without while keeping the pants from becoming too bulky.

Quality pants can be found at affordable prices, but the fit, protection and movement allowance of the pants may, consequently, be somewhat compromised.

Skates ::
The saying goes: A player will go only as far as their skates will take them.

That is because when it comes to on ice performance, hockey skates are the most fundamental piece in the equipment puzzle that players require.

The Right Size
Most skate manufacturers size their skates differently than shoe sizing. Generally speaking, skates (with the exception of those made by Mission) normally fit 1-1 ½ sizes smaller than your shoe size.

Keep in mind, however, that every foot has a unique shape.

If you are unclear of how to to measure, use the following as a guideline.

• To correctly measure foot size for skate fitting, you will need:
  
  A. 2 pieces of Legal sized paper
  B. 1 pencil or pen
  C. A tape measurer
  D. 2 video cassettes or books
  
  To determine this, have the person be seated and wearing the same thickness of sock as he or she would wear when skating. We recommend a thin performance/moisture wicking sock.
  
  Measure each foot separately by placing the foot on a piece of legal sized paper (11 X 14).
  
  Now, while sitting, slide a video cassette up against the back of the heel and the other cassette up against the longest toe. Make a mark on the paper at the heel and toe. Measure the exact distance between the lines and write it down on the paper, labeling it left or right foot.
  
  To determine the width, slide the cassettes against the widest part of the forefoot and mark both sides. Measure the distance between these marks and record the measurement on the paper.
   
• Age and Level of Play
• Last Brand and Model of skate worn as well as size (length and width).
• Actual Foot Size

When ordering by mail, it's important to have someone help with the measuring process.

The Proper Fit
Start with trying your new skates on with moisture wicking performance sock. A proper fitting sock will reduce slippage and help to provide an optimal fit.

Lace the skate up and spend a few minutes walking around to get your heel placed to the rear of the skate.

Stand with your feet placed at shoulders width apart with your legs locked straight.

Your toes should be barely touching the toe cap. Once you bend your knees slightly, you should find that your toes will have enough room to clear the end of the toe cap.

It's important that you make sure that your heel doesn't slip up and down once you are walking around in the skate before taking it out on the ice. Heel slippage is the number one cause of blistering.

To fit the player who is still growing, have the toes barely touching the end of the toecap. The width of a ballpoint pen should be able to slip in behind the heel comfortably. This gives the foot room to grow but not so that the heel will slip and cause on improper fit.

A poor fitting skate can create bad habits and breakdown prematurely while holding back skate performance. Another problem that can occur are blisters or heel spurs.

A good way to break in your new skates is to spend some time in them up at home. You could also use a hair dryer to warm them, but be careful not to overheat any one area. Let them completely cool before walking in them.

The more time that you can spend with your new skates laced up will help reduce the break in period and your feet will feel better when you hit the ice for the first skate with them.

Remember to wear rubber skate guards to avoid damage to floors.

Skate Performance and Maintenance
Make sure you dry your skates out after each use. This will prolong the life of the skates and help keep the odor factor down.

To prolong the life of your rivets and help prevent excessive rusting, pull out the foot bed each time you dry your skates.

Check your blades frequently as nicked edges can occur from walking on dirty flooring either on the bench or in the locker room. Exposed concrete or screws that get stepped on in the rink will also do damage to edges. It's time for a sharpening if you feel like you're slipping during push off.

Having properly sharpened skates is extremely important. The depth of hollow that is best for you is a personal preference.

Keep in mind that sharper does not mean quicker. Less hollow = More glide.

All skates purchased from Hockey Dog and HOCKEYDOG.com come with a free sharpening. Be sure to specify what hollow you would like your skates sharpened at.

Sticks ::
What stick is right for you? There's no right answer to this question. Your stick is a personal preference and the only way to find out what you like best is to try out different sticks until you find the right match for your style of play.

Choosing the right stick is a very personal choice. What works very well for one player may not be right for another.

Stick Length
Stick length really depends on personal preference as well as your position.

A common way to measure your stick is to stand in your stocking feet, without your skates on and on a flat surface.

Place the toe of your stick on the ground between your feet. Lean the stick straight up-and-down so that the handle of the stick touches the tip of your nose.

Then when you stand in your skates, the stick should come up to your chin or just below it. The general rule is to mark the stick at this point and cut the handle on your mark.

Keep in mind that the more you cut a stick down, the stiffer it becomes.

Lie Angle
A lower lie (5 or lower) works well for players that skate in a crouched down position. To determine if you need to use a lower lie look at the wear on the bottom of your blade. If most of the wear is on the heel, switching to a lower lie will put more of your blade on the ice.

A mid lie (5.5 to 6) works well for most players. This lie is a happy medium between the crouched over skating style and the very upright skater.

A high lie (7) will allow the player to keep the puck in close to the body. To determine if you need to use a higher lie look at the wear on the bottom of your blade. If most of the wear is on the toe, switching to a higher lie will put more of your blade on the ice.

Curves
There are three main types of stick/blade curves - heel curve, mid curve and toe curve.

A heel curve has a flat blade face that opens up at the toe (lots of loft). This will allow you to cradle the puck near the heel of the blade when you stickhandle. When you shoot or pass, the puck travels along the entire length of the blade, translating into more accuracy and a harder wrist shot. Also, the more open the blade face is, the easier it is to raise the puck in a hurry.

A mid curve bends gradually from heel to toe with a closed blade face (very little loft). This is the most common choice for the player who wants the best combination for puck control when shooting and passing. The mid curve is a good place to start if you are unsure what type of curve is right for you as it is probably the most user friendly.

A toe curve has a flat blade face until near the end of blade where it curves sharply. Typically used by players who favor quick hard snap shots and toe drags, the toe curve is more difficult to control for shooting and passing accuracy.

Flex
Composite sticks and shafts offer three main Senior flexes: Mid, Stiff and X-Stiff.

There will typically only be one flex available for Intermediate and Junior by each supplier.

The chart below is provided as a guide for comparing and contrasting various flexes by supplier. This is only a guide and if you have any detailed questions about the flex each supplier offers or how they compare to your current stick, please give us a call.

• Senior X-Stiff Flex ― Louisville Stiff :: Bauer 112 :: CCM :: RBK :: Mission 110 :: Easton 110
• Senior Stiff Flex ― Louisville Regular :: Bauer 102 :: CCM :: RBK :: Mission 100 :: Easton 100
• Senior Mid Flex ― Bauer 87 :: CCM :: RBK :: Mission 85 :: Easton 85
• Senior Whip Flex ― Louisville Whip
• Intermediate Flex ― Louisville Int. :: Bauer 77 :: CCM :: RBK :: Mission 75 :: Easton 65
• Junior Flex ― Louisville Jr. :: Bauer 52 :: CCM :: RBK :: Mission 50 :: Easton 50

Keep in mind that the more you cut a stick down, the stiffer it becomes.

Wood Sticks and Blades
Wood sticks will give you the best feel for the puck. Graphite blades still can't match the "soft touch" that wood provides.

One reason that wood has fallen out of favor with some players is that it tends to have a short life-span and can be inconsistent from stick to stick.

Composite Sticks and Shafts
Huge advancements have been made in this category making the one piece stick the most exciting piece of equipment you will purchase.

This is definitely the "toy" for every player who picks one up.

These sticks can be found in different shapes, weights and flexes. Not sure where to start? Give us a call and we'll help you decide which stick is right for your game.

We carry a huge selection from Louisville , Bauer, CCM, Easton , RBK, Mission , Sherwood and Innovative.

A composite shaft should be purchased for improved shaft consistency, shot speed, shot accuracy and its lighter weight.

Most composite sticks and shafts come with a 30 Day Manufacturer Warranty that can be redeemed directly from the manufacturer.

Composite replacement blades do not come with any warranty.

Stick Performance and Maintenance
Taping your stick is totally dependent upon personal preference. As a general rule, you want to tape the blade of the stick from heel to toe.

How you tape the grip of the butt end of your stick is your call but to enhance the feel and grip you might want to try some specialty grip tape. Once you try it, you'll be hooked.

We stock Renfrew Tape. After extensive testing and research we believe it to be the highest possible quality of hockey tape available on the market today.

A good way to get extra life out of your stick blades is to run a strip of sock tape along the bottom of your blade before taping it up. You won't feel the extra strip of tape but it will add life to the bottom of your blade.

A tip to keep ice from building up on the tape of the blade of your stick is to use a stick wax. Rub the wax on the entire taped area of your blade and then smooth it in with a puck to seal it. This should help your tape to last longer as well.